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1) Place hook in vise and
secure thread. Bring forward to just behind eye.
2) Tie in about ten fibers of
blue guinea hen, not quite as long as the hook shank, on
underside of hook, tips extending forward beyond eye.
3) Wind thread back to hook
bend. Tie in a golden pheasant crest feather for the tail,
length about equal to hook length. Tail should curve up. To
help you acheive this, hold crest against shank, leaning
slightly toward you. Take a couple loose turns of thread
around it and the shank, then pull down with even pressure.
The thread torque should bring the fibers up on top of the
shank.
4) Tie in ribbing, portion to
be wound extending beyond bend, directly on top of shank.
5) Tie in the hackle by its
tip, darker side forward. Use a feather with fibers just
slightly longer than the hook gap.
6) Dub a body forward to one
and a half hook eye lengths behind eye. As a seal substiute,
I use a blend of half yellow angora goat hair and half
yellow rabbit fur.
7) Wind the ribbing forward
and tie off. Clip excess.
8) Wind hackle forward, tight
against the ribbing. Tie off and clip.
9) Clip segments from a
matching pair of hen pheasant wing quills, width equal to
3/4 hook gap. Place back to back and tie in directly on top
of shank, tip extending to almost touch tip of tail. Clip
excess butts. Other feathers, such as hen pheasant center
tail, woodcock, snd grouse, are also used.
10) Fold blue guinea hen
fibers back and secure under wing tie-down area with thread
wraps. These fibers should end up being slightly longer than
the body hackle.
11) Form a full, rounded head
of tying thread. Whip finish and cement to create a glossy
head.
Variations: Substitute
different body colors to match local caddis. The olive body
version has produced very well for me. The Silver Invicta
is tied much the same way, using silver tinsel for the body
instead of dubbing, and fine oval silver tinsel for the
ribbing. This particular version is good just about any
time.
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